• Installation Instructions
  • Some tips on maintenance

Sub-Floor Preparations:

The sub floor must be completely dry.

  1. All concrete floors are to measure a maximum of 5 or less on the Tramex concrete encounter.
  2. Use of an 18’’X18’’ 6 mil poly film taped securely to the concrete for a period of no less than 48 hours should show no change in the color of the concrete. Use of a heavy rubber mat laying flat to the concrete will accomplish the same result.
  3. The concrete slab will usually take from 90 to 150 days to dry thoroughly depending on the size of the slab and weather conditions.
  4. The sub floor must be free from any type of paints, oil, greases, dust, and all other types of residues.
  5. The sub floor should be level in general, however, it must be level with in 1/4’’ over a 10 foot radius, any direction.
  6. If plywood is used as a sub floor, the moisture content difference should be no more than a 4% between the engineered wood floor and the plywood, and there should be no more than a 2% difference between the solid wood and the plywood. All plywood must be exterior grade CDX, and plywood size for sub floor is suggested to be no larger than 3/4’’ by 48’’X 48’’ and an expansion gap of no less than 1/4’’ between sheets, and installed in an alternate pattern. (not straight rows).
  7. A suggested moisture barrier for install solid wood floor on a concrete floor is a layer of plastic moisture barrier sheeting, then nail down the plywood to the sub floor every 1 foot along the outside edge, and the same throughout the interior.

All Solid Products:

  1. Solid wood floors require a minimum of 7 days acclimation in the environment they are going to live in, but in extreme climate zones, they will require 10 days.
  2. Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, in multiples of our solid wood flooring width, plus an expansion space of 3/4’’ minimum, to set up the baseline of installation. Be careful to assure you do not end up with a width of less than 2 inches at the final opposing wall. If so, adjust by ripping down the length of the first row.
  3. Install the first row with the groove side towards the wall using top nails as necessary to hold the first row firm and in place. Adjust as necessary. If any nails are visible, counter sink, and fill accordingly.
  4. Use adjustable pneumatic power hammer or nailing machine with 1-1/2’’ or 2’’ nails as required by the tool. Nailing pattern should be no less than 1’’ from the end, and every 8’’-10’’ thereafter. Each row must be nailed. Staples with a minimum of 1/4’’ crown and 1-1/2 in length, or more, and coated or are authorized.
  5. Add and adjust each additional row of wood planks, to offset or stagger the end joints at least 6’’ to prevent repeating the pattern.
  6. A separation of no less than 6’’ is required for end joints in adjoining rows.
  7. 3/4’’ expansion space is required in all directions from any.

Some tips on maintenance

The enjoyment of wood flooring depends on some routine but minimal maintenance detailsThese include:

  • Sweep your floors or use a dust mop daily,but do not use a household dust treatment,as this may cuase your floors to become slick or dull the finish.
  • Vacuum your floor regularly,as often as you would vacuum carpets.
  • Clean your floor’s coated surface with a lightly dampened cloth using a recommended cleaning products,and according to the manufacturer’s directions for use.
  • Never damp mop a wood floor.In all cases,use minimum water,because water causes deterioration of the wood itself,as welll as the finish.
  • Buy a “floor care kit” that your installer or flooring retailer recommends instead of counting on a home-made remedy of vinegar and water to clean your floors.Different finishes have different maintenance requirements,and it is best to follow professional advice in this area.
  • Clean Light stain by rubbing with a damp cloth.
  • Avoid using mops or cloths that leave excessive water on the floor.Never let a spill of water dry on the floor.
  • Control humidity levels by use of a dehumidifier or humidifier.You may need to add portable units in some rooms.
  • Have your floors recoated periodically as the finish shows wear.
  • Do not clean your wood floors with water or water-based products on a regular schedule.Clean only when necessary and clean only the soiled areas.

There are other steps you can take to minimize maintenance and maintain the beauty of your wood floors as well.

  • Do not use sheet vinyl or tile floor care products on wood floors. Self-polishing acrylic waxes cause wood to become slippery and appear dull quickly.
  • Use throw rugs both inside and outside doorways to help prevent grit, dirt and other debris from being tracked onto your wood floors. This will prevent scratching.
  • Do not wet-mop a wood floor. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood and leave a discoloring residue.
  • Wipe up spills immediately with a slightly dampened towel.
  • Do not over-wax a wood floor. If a wax floor dulls, try buffing instead. Avoid wax buildup under furniture and other light traffic areas by applying wax in these spots every other waxing session.
  • Put soft plastic or fabric-faced glides under the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching.
  • Avoid walking on your wood floors with cleats, sports shoes and high heels. A 125-pound woman walking in high heels has an impact of 2,000 pounds per square inch. An exposed heel nail can exert up to 8,000 pounds per square inch. This kind of impact can dent any floor surface.
  • When moving heavy furniture, do not slide it on wood flooring. It is best to pick up the furniture completely to prevent scratches.
  • For wood flooring in the kitchen, place an area rug in front of the kitchen sink.
  • Use a humidifier throughout the winter months to minimize gaps or cracks.